Research
This is a
little nerdy, but if you plan to visit cities in the United States, you could
call up the urban planning departments. They might have some cool things to say
and give interesting histories of neighborhoods, social problems, and solutions
to problems. It's often more fun than the normal touristy stuff. For example,
Detroit is a city with a lot of problems and is representative of problems in
the U.S. so going through it is a very cool living museum
exhibit.
Places to Drink
www.beertravelers.com
Transportation
- Around the U.S. by Air, Train, and
Bus
Comments:
If you plan your itinerary
ahead of time, you can Southwest your way across the country. Southwest and ATA
are very cheap airlines...you can travel faster across the country and for a
very reasonable amount of money, provided you book ahead of time. It can be
cheaper than the bus and a million times more convenient. Even if you rail/bus
your way along the East Coast, use cheap air travel for major distances. It's
faster and probably cheaper. For instance, if you fly into Boston/New York, you
could explore Boston and NY and then get down to Washington, DC by rail/bus.
Then possibly fly out of Baltimore (BWI Airport) to Chicago on Southwest or ATA.
Stop over in Chicago for some sightseeing. From there, pick your poison with the
airlines; the Midway Airport is pretty convenient. You could fly to Las Vegas,
Florida, Seattle, southern California, and northern California, among other
destinations. I think it may also be possible go to Portland, Oregon with one of
these airlines. So a possible itinerary could be something like Boston-NY-DC
(rail/bus). DC-Chicago-Las Vegas-Los Angeles-San Francisco-Seattle. Then fly out
of Seattle to wherever you want to get back to. Check out www.southwest.com. You have to book way
ahead of time to get those "fun fares." Also, they now go out to
Hawaii!
The plane is a worthy option for those expanses of the country
that are just as impressive from 30,000 feet as they are from 300 above sea
level. The train would be fun, though.
When I went to the States, I flew
from London Heathrow to Newark, then Washington, DC (I can't remember which
airport) and Chicago O'Hare, and then back to LHR and it cost £1,500, but then I
didn't shop around and that was the first price given to me. I found the
constant checking in and out was a total pain and found myself wishing I'd taken
the train.
Here's the North
American Rail Pass, but I don't know of anyone who ever tried it. It
takes too long to go across country! North Americans don't travel on trains much
for a good reason - the rail system SUCKS.
My cousin from England did the
Amtrak thing cross-country; he had a brilliant time, albeit there were delays
which he said were quite bad. The trains were fairly clean, and the people
weren't too sketchy. He said that the trains were definitely better on the
coastlines - east and west - which is to be expected, I suppose.
I used a
rail pass to travel from New York City's Penn Station to New Orleans and then on
to Texas once. It was $300 of unlimited travel for 4 weeks, I think. Looking
back now, I think I would travel by train again in the U.S. The train was very
mellow and relaxing. Flying domestically in the U.S. sucks the big one. It's an
ordeal, and they make you pay for your own booze, which they wave under your
nose about three minutes before you arrive where you are meant to be going and
never less than an hour after you ordered it. Jet Blue and Alaska Air are all
right, but the shit you have to go through at the airport cancels out any
benefits.
I haven't taken the train since two disastrous outings in
graduate school. The Chicago Amtrak service was absolutely horrible ...
constantly delayed and the train (which was the one that used to go from Chicago
to New Orleans and had some fancy name) was constantly breaking down on the
tracks (not to mention an average 1 hour delay). Eventually I learned my lesson
and started taking a private charter bus that used to go directly from my
university to the airport. In undergrad I used to take the Montreal-NY-Syracuse
route to see my boyfriend at Cornell, and that was also a major pain in the ass
(although at least the train wouldn't break down on the tracks) because it was
so slooooow and constantly delayed.
Getting around the East Coast is easy
by train. Crossing the country is less so. You might plan on flying between the
East Coast and Chicago and then over to California. Renting a car in California
would be an easy and fun way to go from San Diego up to San Francisco. Beautiful
drives!
My opinion is that it's quite expensive to travel by rail on the
East Coast, although check to see if you qualify for any discounts. Generally,
though, the bus is cheaper.
Transportation - Road Trips Across the
U.S.
Denny G's Road
Trips - This guy followed the length of the old Route 66 on one of his
trips.
www.roadtripusa.com - Route
7 on their map (U.S. Route 2) could be a trek to Alaska via the north
country.
www.byways.org - You
can request a free map of all the scenic byways.
roadsideamerica.com -
A guide to the quirky America!
roadsidepeek.com
eccentricamerica.net
When
considering a southern U.S. coast to coast route, one thing to keep in mind is
that there is not much to see in Alabama. Start in Atlanta, then swing north to
hit I-40. Go through the southern part of the Great Smoky Mountains National
Park, then head west to Memphis for Graceland and Beale Street. From there head
west through Arkansas and Oklahoma. All along I-40 there are the Indian
reservations (Arapaho and others) which are very cool. Another option for this
route is to go south from Memphis through Mississippi and take the Natchez
Trace, a very lovely parkway, through the Mississippi Delta. If you plan to go
through New Orleans, southern Louisiana is very lovely with lots of plantations
and French/Creole sites to see. The western area and the panhandle of Texas are
pretty scenic.
If San Francisco is the start point, head over to Tahoe.
From Tahoe head northwest through Carson City, Marysville, CA, and over to
Shasta City and I-5. Take I-5 up to Seattle, then head over toward southeast
Washington and down through Idaho over to Yellowstone. From there head southeast
to Denver and then through Colorado to New Mexico. Pick up I-40 at or east of
Albuquerque. Head south to Dallas from I-40 with a possible stop at Jesse James'
hideout in Oklahoma and then over to Baton Rouge and down to Louisiana and New
Orleans. From there stick to the Gulf Coast and head to Florida. On the way back
from Florida head over toward Jacksonville and hit the Amelia Island area. St.
Mary's, Georgia would be nice as well. From there head north to Savannah and
then northeast to Atlanta. From Atlanta head up to Tennessee and then west to
Memphis (there's a road that cuts directly across the southern portion of the
state). From Memphis hook back up to I-40, and then go through Arkansas and
through Flagstaff, Arizona and then Las Vegas. From Las Vegas head south toward
Los Angeles but then over to the coast and hit Highway 101 and ride that up to
San Francisco.
Another loop that begins and ends in San Francisco would
go north from San Francisco up towards Portland and/or Seattle, then east across
Idaho/Montana, south into Wyoming, then east again to the Black Hills/Mt.
Rushmore, through South Dakota - be sure to see Wall Drug and Badlands National
Park - head for Chicago and cut south to Florida from there. Come back through
New Orleans and Texas, and pick up the highway that follows old Route 66, since
east to west is the best way to do Route 66. From old Route 66 in Texas, it's
pretty much a straight shot to Los Angeles. It could be done in as little as two
days if you did nothing but drive. There's some really cool stuff along the way
that's worth seeing - historic66.com. Stop along
the way to try the lamb stew at the Ranch Kitchen in Gallup, New Mexico and to
stand on a corner in Winslow, Arizona. Maybe make a quick detour up to the Grand
Canyon. Take the Pacific Coast Highway from L.A. to the San Francisco Bay to
finish the trip.
Comments:
I've driven down a
few chunks of Route 66 in Oklahoma. It wasn't mind-blowing, but the dusty little
towns do have a unique look and atmosphere. Driving Texas from end to end is
booooooring!
I can tell ya what road trips NOT to take. I'd highly advise
against anything that goes through Oklahoma, Kansas, Iowa, etc. I really like
following Route 66 along I-40, though I have only done the stretch that goes
from Santa Fe, NM to Bakersfield, CA. You can often see old patches of Route 66
to the side. I do recommend stopping in Flagstaff. Pick up Navajo radio along
the way.
I-80 travels from the east to the San Francisco Bay area, but
there's not much to see through vast stretches of Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah and
Nevada. Driving past the Great Salt Lake and across the Salt Flats is, in
particular, an experience I do not recommend. It's not all bad, though. Not far
from I-80 in Iowa is the "Field of Dreams" movie
site (in Dyersville, on US 20), which is kinda cool. An hour-long detour
from the interstate on Route 87 will take you to Alliance, Nebraska, home of
Carhenge, a full-scale replica of Stonehenge made from old cars.
I-90
takes travelers west through South Dakota, which is a very worthy trip -
Badlands National Park is amazing, as is Wall Drug in the nearby town of Wall.
If you drive through the Badlands, there's a tiny little restaurant on the south
side of the park (can't remember the name, but it's hard to miss) where they
serve an Indian taco (standard taco ingredients served on frybread) that is
wicked good. From there you can go on to Mount Rushmore and the in-progress
Crazy Horse Monument. The Black Hills are beautiful and worth driving through.
Stay on I-90 into Wyoming and you can visit Devil's Tower and imagine how life
would have been different if aliens really did take Richard Dreyfuss away back
in 1977.
Transportation - Road Trips in Eastern U.S. - Discussion and
Suggestions
Starting from Boston, go north along the coast and return
via inland routes in a big circle. In the summer there may be some crowds, and
places like Bar Harbor, Maine and Ogunquit (although it's beautiful) are a
little bit more crowded because they're closer to Massachusetts and are an easy
day trip from there. Less touristy areas will not have as big crowds. Bar Harbor
is also close to Arcadia National Park, a recommended stop. Boston is also five
hours from Montreal, and from Maine you can drive through New Hampshire and
Vermont. NH has the White Mountains, and VT has nature stuff on the way up to
Montreal. Montreal would be a cool urban break from all the nature-lovey stuff
so spend a couple of days there and then drive back down the coast of Maine.
Maine has the advantage of the ocean, but there are some incredibly scenic
drives through Vermont. The Canada-US border in VT is a really easy cross.
Remember to bring your passport.
However, some people think New Hampshire
and Vermont are sort of interchangeable and from Boston Vermont can easily be
reached within a day so skip New Hampshire and spend a few days doing things in
Vermont. Go up to Montreal (it is an hour and a half from Burlington, VT), and
spend a couple days there. Then drive down to Boston through Maine. You can get
the whole Green Mountains thing in VT, the big-city-Europe-lite-nightlife-thing
in Montreal, and then the oceanside beauty of Maine. Driving down through Maine
might be the most time-consuming part, and if you really prefer the ocean, you
could easily return through
Vermont.
Comments:
I do my road trips in the
East; the scenery between the Midwest and New York is gorgeous. Eastern Kentucky
and West Virginia are beautiful in the summer and fall. Some parts of Tennessee
are frightening, but driving through the mist of the Smoky Mountains is really
cool. Then North Carolina is kinda scrubby, but South Carolina is beautiful. I
highly encourage using the back roads in South Carolina.
We spent our
honeymoon on a New England road trip in the month of June, and we took another
one several years later in July and loved both of them. It's been a long time
since I've been there, but the countryside is beautiful. We didn't spend a lot
of time in ME and didn't venture into Canada, but there's lots to see and do in
the entire area. Our favorite part was the White Mountains in NH, and I have to
disagree a bit about NH and VT being interchangeable. Maybe they're more so now,
but we thought NH was more rugged, which we liked, and VT was a bit less so,
although VT did have more of its own unique charm. Wherever you go, I think
you'll enjoy it. We sure did.
My family traveled the coast of Maine when
I was in high school. It was absolutely beautiful. Arcadia National Park is
absolutely gorgeous. There's a spot where it's the first place where the sun
hits the U.S. It's cool. I've spent a lot of time in
Maine.
Transportation - Road Trips in Western U.S.
An idea
for a summer (July and August) road trip is to fly in and out of San Francisco
and make a circle through the west. From San Francisco, travel to Yosemite and
over Tioga Pass (if making this trip before July, check to be sure Tioga Pass is
open), then down the Owens Valley to the interstate and across to Las Vegas.
From there travel into Utah for Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, then to
Arizona for the Grand Canyon. Plan on driving from the Grand Canyon to Kingman,
AZ in one day. That is about 250 miles, and Flagstaff is a town worth stopping
in. It's in the mountains and will be cool in summer. Even Kingman is at
something of an elevation and will be a little cooler than the Mojave Desert.
The following day is your long-ass, get-it-done driving day. Leave Kingman
around 4:30 - 5 in the morning (sunrise will be between 5:30 - 6 a.m.). The
Mojave is absolutely spectacular at dawn, really wild and beautiful and
staggeringly Not Hot. Cross the desert taking I-40 to Barstow, then take 58 west
until just before Bakersfield where you turn off and take Route 233 west,
crossing CA 99 at the junction with I-5. From there opt for speed over scenery
and take I-5 north to CA 46 and on to Paso Robles. Spend the night in Paso
Robles as opposed to continuing on to Cambria on the coast. It's bigger and has
more food and lodging options. Also, the last part between Paso Robles and the
coast will likely be a windy road that will be challenging with the sun full in
your face (because it will be afternoon by then) and general tiredness. Then
follow Route 46 west to Route 1, intersecting with the Pacific Coast Highway
south of Cambria and up the coast.
An idea for a "Great American West
Road Trip" starts and ends in Denver. These could be some of the stops:
CO -
Rocky Mountain National Park
WY - Oregon Trail Ruts and Register Cliff near
Guernsey
SD - Black Hills, Badlands National Park, Wall Drug
WY - Devil's
Tower
MT - Little Bighorn Battlefield, continuing up to Billings in order to
drive Route 212 over the Beartooth Pass and into Yellowstone National Park
WY
- Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park
UT - Golden Spike
National Historic Site, Salt Lake City, Bryce Canyon National Park, Cedar Breaks
National Monument, Zion Canyon National Park
AZ - Grand Canyon National Park
(north and south rims)
UT - Monument Valley
Four Corners (UT, AZ, NM,
CO)
CO - Mesa Verde National Park, Durango to Silverton over Route 550, Black
Canyon of the Gunnison, Pike's Peak, Garden of the Gods, U.S. Air Force Academy,
Denver
Comments:
A road trip that I am really
looking forward to is one I call Great Parks of the American West via Secondary
Roads. It'll be a mostly back roads trip to Glacier, Olympic, Yellowstone, and a
few others - maybe the Grand Canyon, depending on how much time we have. I
prefer to see as much undeveloped land as possible. Others find this
boring.
Undeveloped land is great, a lot of the time. The undeveloped
land I drove through in southern Wisconsin was beautiful, as were the broad
stretches of forest in upstate New York and southern Ontario, the tunnel of
greenery surrounding roads in North Carolina, and lots of other places. The
Bonneville Salt Flats and miles and miles of Nevada scrub desert punctuated by
signs saying "PRISON AREA - DO NOT PICK UP HITCHHIKERS" is not so great. I do
like to see good scenery on a road trip - the Pacific Coast Highway is good for
that - but the great thing about road trips is the opportunity to stop along the
way and see bizarre and interesting things. I highly recommend roadsideamerica.com for a good
guide to the weirdest crap in America.
One of my favorite pieces of art is at
Denver International Airport on walls on either side of a broad corridor. It's
entitled "America, Why I Love Her" and features two maps of the USA dotted with
photographs of roadside attractions and oddities from around the nation. It's
quite entertaining to stand and stare at for awhile - if you've got a long
layover in Denver sometime, check it out.
Actually, I disagree, not
necessarily with the Bonneville Salt Flats because I've not knowingly driven by
them; however, I've been back and forth on I-80 several times and done some
exploring on US 50 as well. I likes it a lot - no sign of humanity, not even
billboards in many places.
I did some miles on I-40 from the Grand Canyon
to the California border in April. The eastern part, I was not impressed with.
The Navajo radio was pretty cool, as was taking a detour literally in Navajo
country to check out the dinosaur tracks and fossils. The scenery was pretty
awesome, but the locals were pretty aggressively seeking "donations" at the
dinosaur site which was a bit of a bummer. Driving anywhere around Washington
state is pretty interesting as well. The dry eastern part of the state is an
amazing contrast to the rain forest on the west side.
Agreed re:
Washington State, traveling east-west or west-east to get the contrasts of
several types of scenery. The Coulee country in the east, caused by a giant
flood when a lake burst, is interesting. The back of Oregon has some lovely
drives and fascinating variations of scenery, such as in the John Day area. I
also was very impressed with the forested hills and valleys on the road across
northern California from Arcata to Redding; I expect that continues to be
interesting as you go further east via Mt. Lassen.
Dudes, Highway 395
from Yosemite down through Death Valley is the most amazing stretch of road
probably anywhere on earth.
I did the San Francisco to Monterey to San
Luis Obispo trip via Routes 1 and 101. It was awesome. Driving around Sedona,
Arizona is stunning as well.
San Luis Obispo is where I draw the line ...
If you fly into Los Angeles, just head north and get the hell out of there. Go
through Monterey to San Francisco on the 1 and 101. From SanFran head to Lake
Tahoe and from there cut through northern California via Susanville and pop out
onto I-5 near Shasta. Then head up I-5 to Eugene, over to Florence and up the
Oregon coast into Washington. Work your way around Puget Sound and into Seattle
and then head up to British Columbia. Then fly back to LA and don't leave the
airport and then head home. Honorable mention for beauty has to go to northern
Arizona/southern Utah/western New Mexico, aka Four Corners Area.
Just
take the LONG road and ride Highway 1 all the way up the West
Coast.
Routes 1 and 101 from southern California to San Francisco are
awesome. I highly recommend them. Late September/early October is a lovely time
for this, often with very little fog and good warm temperatures, unlike most of
the rest of the year. The route from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon via Sedona and
Flagstaff are excellent as well. You'd be surprised at how scenic it
is.
Transportation - Trains
Amtrak
Comments:
I
got an Amtrak from New York City to New Orleans about ten years ago. It was a
bit of a nightmare from what I remember. I had a sleeper for the first part of
the trip and then coach for the rest. I think I left Penn Station in the early
evening and arrived in New Orleans the following night. I don't remember too
much about it as I drank most of the way down to help with the boredom. What I
do recall was that it was cramped, boring and noisy, and the rest of the
carriage was filled with freaks. The only good thing about it was that I got to
see some of the countryside and a lot of states I hadn't been in before, but I
suppose if you are from the U.S., it might not have that novelty factor. Coming
into New Orleans that evening across Lake Ponchartrain was quite spectacular,
though, and nearly made up for the rest of it. I got back on after a few days,
intending to go from New Orleans to Los Angeles, but I stuck it out about six
hours and jumped off in Houston. I flew back to New York City.
I've gone
from San Francisco to Massachusetts and from Massachusetts to Los Angeles on the
train. I was in coach, which got uncomfortable and probably smelly at times, but
I really enjoyed myself. West of Chicago, you can sit in the observation car and
just watch amazing scenery pass before your eyes.
I actually had an
Amtrak Pass for one month a few years ago. It got me from San Francisco to
Savannah with many stops across the top of the U.S., some of Canada and down the
East Coast. The western train going from San Diego to Seattle is freakin'
beautiful and nice, as is the train on the north. The East Coast train wasn't as
nice at it was really full.
I've done Carbondale-near to Milwaukee
(through Chicago). That's the only time I've used Amtrak outside the northeast
corridor.
I've been on Amtrak from Fresno, California to Seattle,
Washington in just a regular passenger seat. It was long but a pretty ride. This
was some years ago, though.
I've only been from Fredericksburg, VA to
Boston, MA. It was hell. It was also the day before Thanksgiving. Ugh. It was
hellishly crowded, and it took 12 hours. Driving takes 9 or less, and to fly
it's an hour and some change. And then we found it would have been cheaper to
fly ...
One time I was traveling with my mom, and we met people who
taught us card games. Another time I just wandered the train like a ghost and
enjoyed the solitude. In high school I also took the train from Seattle to San
Francisco and had a little romantic encounter.
Rail travel from
Washington, DC to New York is frequent, easy, and comfortable.
Advice:
bring your own food and drink. Have a flask for the occasional cheap buzz when
needed, and be prepared to chill. Having your own food will save you a shitload
of money.
General