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Virginia
Meet Virginia

Alexandria

The Fun Side of the Potomac

Stuff to do: A visit to Alexandria's Old Town is great for dining and shopping, and the colonial architecture is very pretty. There's a walking/biking trail along the Potomac that's nice for an evening stroll. For a great view of Old Town and parts of Washington, DC, visit the
George Washington Masonic National Memorial at the head of King Street. You can't miss the large tower! Admission is free, and there are guided tower tours daily at 10:00 and 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 and 3:00 p.m.

Alexandria Ghost Tour Report

If you find yourself in Alexandria on an October evening, you might like to take a Ghost Tour. Two different tours meet at the Ramsay House Visitors Center at King and Fairfax Streets in Alexandria. We intended to take the
Alexandria Original Ghost and Graveyard Tour, but it was filled so we opted for the Alexandria Footsteps to the Past History/Ghost Tour instead. This tour operates from March through November on Sundays through Thursdays at 7:00 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays at 7:00 and 8:30 p.m., and you can call 703-683-3451 if you have questions in advance. The one-hour tour concentrated on Alexandria's early history and its ghosts with a walk through the Old Town ending in a cemetery where the tomb of the unknown soldier of the Revolutionary War is located. The tour went to most of the main historical sites in Alexandria. Our guide was Alexandria born and bred so he knew the area and the history very well, and we learned a good bit about the town and its role in the American colonial and revolutionary era. The guide was also very interested in parapsychology and offered a lot of information about it. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, it's an interesting walk just from the history standpoint.

Fredericksburg

Visit Fredericksburg

Stuff to do: Old Town Fredericksburg is pretty and much like Old Town Alexandria. There are a lot of gorgeous houses, and the main streets are William, Princess Anne, and Caroline. Many streets are one way so finding a parking spot and walking around is a good idea. It's also nice to take a walk to the river along Sophia Street. The Visitor Center at 706 Caroline Street is really informative with a helpful staff. Stop on Charles Street to see the
Mary Washington House where George's mother lived. Kenmore is a beautiful mansion and garden in the middle of town at 1201 Washington Avenue. The grounds are lovely, and the plasterwork ceilings are amazing. Fredericksburg is also the home of Belmont, the estate of American Impressionist Gari Melchers and a gorgeous building with great art. There are lots of small things to note along William Street, like a former slave auction block and a random plaque that states a date and says that nothing happened there at that time. If you like antiques, Fredericksburg has tons of shops with friendly owners.

Folks interested in Civil War history will want to visit the
Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania County Battlefields. The whole battlefield area is really pretty, and the main one in Fredericksburg proper has some walking trails and a short driving tour. The three other battlefields in the area -- Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania -- are okay, but only Chancellorsville has a visitor center. The last two mostly involve driving around various fields in the countryside. The battlefield area also includes the Stonewall Jackson Shrine at the site where the Confederate general died.

Also in Fredericksburg is the
University of Mary Washington with its gorgeous campus and small, free-of-charge Ridderhof Martin Gallery which houses some interesting exhibitions. The college campus is part of the site of a Civil War battle called Marye's Heights.

Not far from Fredericksburg is
Ferry Farm, George Washington's childhood home. His family moved there when he was six years old, and he lived at Ferry Farm until he was a young man and moved to Mount Vernon.

If you visit Fredericksburg in the fall, especially around Halloween, you might enjoy a great Ghost Tour with a lot of history that's organized by the Historic Preservation Club of the University of Mary Washington. The tours are available every year for a few weekends before and after Halloween.

Bars, pubs, and restaurants: A popular coffee shop is Hyperion Espresso at 301 William Street, and a must-go is
Carl's Frozen Custard at 2200 Princess Anne Street. It uses original custard machines to make the stuff, one of only three places in the U.S. with that distinction. It's regularly featured in the "Best Ice Cream in the US." It's inexpensive -- most items are under $3. If there's a long line, don't worry -- it moves very quickly. For lunch, stop at Goolrick's, an original soda fountain/drugstore that's a Fredericksburg establishment. It's simple and cheap and an experience. You can sit at the counter or at one of the many tables. The menu is chicken salad, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, BLTs, and the like, and the food is good. They sell vanilla Cokes and excellent milkshakes. You can find Goolrick's at 901 Caroline Street. If Goolrick's is filled up, Spanky's is a good sandwich place and popular with the college crowd. The Virginia Deli is also good for sandwiches. For a regular restaurant, try Bangkok Cafe on Caroline Street where you can choose the spiciness of your meal or Roma 52 on Charles Street. Roma has excellent and not too expensive Italian food and is family run. Ristorante Renato on William Street is a more expensive, high-end place and is a tad bit better but not by much. Sammy T's on Caroline is also a good choice. It's veggie friendly and tasty. Up William Street toward the university is a place called Jake and Mike's. Check out fredericksburg.com for more info about restaurants.

How to get there: If you're heading down to Fredericksburg from the Washington, DC/northern Virginia area, avoid Route 3 as much as possible due to its heavy traffic. For another access point with a little bit less congestion, take Exit 133A toward Falmouth off I-95 south just before the Fredericksburg exits. Go down Route 17 and turn right onto Route 1. Take a left onto Princess Anne Street and watch for a sign for the visitor center. Princess Anne will take you into downtown Fredericksburg. You'll pass Carl's Frozen Custard on the way.

Trip Report - Fredericksburg, Spring 2004

We made a day trip to Fredericksburg on a Saturday, and unfortunately we started late so we were a bit pressed for time. The directions given above are great for anyone heading south from DC, and we avoided all the traffic around the shopping mall on Route 3. The trip down I-95 took about an hour, and we arrived around noon with the thought of eating at Goolrick's. It must be a good place for lunch because all the counter seats and tables and chairs were filled. Instead of waiting, we found another restaurant called Spirits on Caroline Street where we had excellent wraps and wrolls. Yes, wrolls with a "w" - wraps are made of pita; wrolls are made with tortillas. The grilled chicken and pesto wroll was very tasty, and the vegetable and ham and cheese wraps were also pronounced to be very good. Service was good, too, and the food wasn't expensive. The restaurant has wooden booths with comfy cushions and an old metal ceiling.

The town of Fredericksburg is pretty with old buildings and churches in a colonial style, and antique stores abound. We agreed we'd like to return someday and check them out as well as the town's historic sites, but our main interest on this visit was Civil War history. We started at the Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor Center where a Park Service ranger led a short walking tour of the area near the Visitor Center that saw the fiercest fighting. She did a great job of explaining how Lee's army (South) had the advantage over Burnside's men (North) and the battlefield maneuvers of the day. At one point about half the group played Confederates while the others played Yankees, and we were able to see for ourselves exactly how the terrain and manmade land features played their parts in protecting or exposing each side's troops. After the tour we walked up the hill nearby for a better view of the Confederate position and marveled again at the human toll in the battles of this war.

We had picked up a brochure in the Visitor Center that had a map of all four battlefields in the area so we followed the suggested driving tour for the rest of the day, finishing the Fredericksburg portion by driving south along the hillside where the Southern troops stood their ground. We headed west to Chancellorsville on Route 3 and encountered the shopping mall traffic, but after we were through that area, the roads were no longer busy. Chancellorsville has a Visitor Center, too, with exhibits and a movie. Since we were short on time, we didn't see the movie, but the exhibits helped us to better understand the events that took place. We continued on our driving tour of that battlefield and then headed further west to the Wilderness Battlefield and southeast to the Spotsylvania Court House Battlefield. Unless you're very interested in Civil War history (some of us were), you may want to skip these areas since there's not much to see but open countryside with historical markers. Virginia is pretty in April, though, with trees and flowers blooming, and it's a nice time of year for a drive in the country.

We ended our day at Carl's where we had the famous frozen custard which was very good. Don't be put off by a long line at the window - it seemed like we gave our order, and the ice cream appeared instantly. They definitely know how to do fast service at Carl's! We returned to DC in a roundabout way due to car radio reports of horrendous traffic on I-95 from Fredericksburg north to DC. We had seen some of it on our way south, and a fierce debate ensued among us as to how to return to the city. Two of us fought for Routes 17/29/I-66 heading northwest and then east, one argued for going straight north on Route 1 with all its stop lights, and one abstained. We used 17/29/I-66 and were back in DC in an hour and 15 minutes.

Manassas National Battlefield Park

Manassas National Battlefield Park

The first battle at Manassas, aka Bull Run, in 1861 was the first land conflict in the American Civil War, and a subsequent battle occurred in the same area in 1862. A visit to the combined battlefield makes for an easy afternoon trip into the Virginia countryside from Washington, DC. Battle reenactments are held there from time to time, and they're absolutely amazing. You have to remind yourself that they're being staged and people aren't really fighting. The reenacters are friendly and will answer visitors' questions and pose for photos. Some of them drive thousands of miles to take part. Check the schedule of events on the park's website if you're particularly interested in seeing a reenactment.

Trip Report - Manassas National Battlefield Park, 2004

To get to Manassas National Battlefield Park from the Washington, DC area, take Highway 66 west from Washington and follow the brown-colored signs to the exit and battlefield. The drive takes about 40 - 45 minutes from Washington. We began our visit in the visitor center and checked out the electronic narrated map to get an overview of the first battle of Manassas/Bull Run. We then joined a very informative park ranger-led walking tour of the central part of the battle, followed by a do-it-yourself one-mile walking loop tour to see in detail the outer locations that were a part of the conflict. Afterward we followed the driving tour mapped out in a brochure that has stops at the sites important to the second battle of Manassas/Bull Run in 1862. There are restaurants nearby for lunch or dinner if you're hungry.